Painting multiple similar miniatures at the same time can be a great way to progress quickly through a collection of unpainted minions. For quick turnaround, efficiency is key. The more steps you can repeat across the models, the more time you have for fiddly detail work like painting eyes and teeth.
I’ve been eager to attempt a batch painting project for a while. I had attempted painting a pack? warren? of kobolds a few years back but quickly became frustrated with the process largely due to lack of experience.
Then, as part of a group project, I had a chance to paint a group of yetis. I’d read good things about airbrushing inks due to their vibrancy and relative transparency. Plus, I’d seen some impressive paint jobs on these particular models. So, this was the perfect opportunity to try underpainting with ink to find out if I could quickly batch-paint these guys and do them justice!
Here’s what I did.
Step 1 – Effective Priming with an Airbrush
Above is the first stage, after washing, basing, and zenithal priming. I’ll have more to say on basing before priming, but the basic zenithal process is accomplished here with an airbrush.
First, a coat of black covers the entirety of the model, then grey from a 45-degree angle circling around, and finally a light dusting of white from 90 degrees. Typically, full coverage requires more than one coat of black, whereas grey and white are each applied as a single layer.
Step 2 – Ink Airbrushing
Next is where the ink comes in. Here I used a light brown. This may seem counterintuitive for a creature that’s perceived as white, but my thoughts are that these are dirty beasts, and the color shown now is an unwashed undercoat.
Again, I used an airbrush in a single coat. The color filter effect of the ink is impressive. It tinted the models while preserving the light and dark values of the undercoat. I was less pleased with the sheen of the ink, however. It seems inks are quite shiny in comparison to acrylic paint. Happily, this is resolved in the next step.
Step 3 – Dry Brush and Detail
The final stage starts with dry brushing three different intensities of white paint, each layer with a little less coverage than the last. For a different monster, choose a light, medium, and dark shade of your desired color.
I recommend paint with a high pigment density, and Reaper’s Bones line is perfect for the job. The darkest white coat almost completely covers the model, everything but what would be in absolute shadow. The next lights up areas out of shadow but still allows the first coat to show through in “darker” places. The last and brightest of the whites highlights the tops of heads and limbs.
After dry brushing, I quickly painted details like eyes, teeth, and tongues as a finishing touch. Done!
Final Thoughts
From start to finish, this party of yetis came alive in a fraction of the time it would have taken to paint them individually. Given the level of effort, the results are surprisingly good! I’m impressed with how much color an ink can add while remaining transparent enough to convey the depth of the underlying layer.
One note of caution: inks are highly soluble in water. To prevent color bleeding, varnish over any ink layer before using a water-based product.
Also, I’d stick to six or fewer models at a time. Tackling a whole table full of the same model could drain the joy from the hobby. Find the right number of models for your comfort level, and whether you’re painting a horde of yetis or any other group of monsters, this is a rewarding technique to crank out good results in a relatively short amount of time.
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